The Golden Age of Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent
An evocative show in which Anthony Vaccarello draws inspiration from Elevator to the Gallows, the film starring Jeanne Moreau as a woman who searches for her lover through the night, dressed with meticulous elegance for an afternoon that was supposed to unfold very differently.
The film’s melancholy is echoed in Vaccarello’s collection, presented in a single colour: gold. Pale, burnished, matte, glossy, Byzantine and mirror-like, it changes character with every fabric, becoming vestment, armour or sensual regalia.
Safari jackets, trench coats and wrap skirts revisit Yves Saint Laurent’s repertoire. Coats with pronounced shoulders, voluminous blouses and cropped suits complete the picture. The safari jacket takes on the splendour of a relic, while the trench coat sheds every trace of anonymity.
These women want to be seen, while leaving unresolved the far more difficult desire to be reached. At their feet, golden chains and heels entwined with serpents; at their ears, monumental filigree. Ornament acquires that subtle sense of danger that Saint Laurent has always found more compelling than grace.
Dior: Reflections on an Archive
With his Spring/Summer 2027 collection, Jonathan Anderson continues to explore how to imprint his own vision on the house.
It all begins with a nut. “Discovering the wenwan nut reminded me that nature can offer both knowledge and something precious.”
Not meant to be eaten, it is held in the hand like a powerful worry stone, an object of contemplation that grows increasingly polished through constant rubbing between the fingers.
The interplay between culture and preciousness leads Anderson once again into the archives, where he asks a series of questions. How far can lightness go in a garment? Where does true symmetry lie? Can lace hold the volume of air?
Lightweight suits, dresses shaped by overlapping layers of fabric, the iconic Bar jacket elongated until its defining waistline disappears, chiffon petals forming short, voluminous skirts layered over featherweight dresses, fluid trousers and sweaters transformed by panels knotted at the waist.
As Anderson puts it, “the intrinsic nature of archival materials finds expression through new forms.”
Chloé: Instinct Over Nostalgia
Chemena Kamali allows her obsessions to guide the new collection, drawing on the house archives, décolletage, flowers, Karl Lagerfeld’s tailoring and the outerwear of the 1970s, without allowing any of these references to slip into nostalgia.
There is lingerie, delicately revealed, and the weightless movement of airy chiffon dresses. Trench coats built for great storms are transparent as membranes. Seventies tailoring returns in clean-cut suits and petite Spencer jackets. Broderie anglaise, one of the maison’s most recognisable signatures, shifts in scale and even finds its way onto latex boots.
Transparent and opaque, fluid and structured, every element seems conceived through layers and contrasts.
The result is a rich, multifaceted collection designed for women, by a woman who observes and listens to them, but who, above all, listens to herself.
Loewe: A Summer of Freedom
In the courtyard of the imposing Château de Vincennes, amid bright light and vitamin-rich colours, the new Loewe collection immediately takes on a summery, carefree, almost holiday-like mood.
The house’s Spanish roots intertwine with the Latin American heritage of its two designers and the American pragmatism of their training. The references remain understated: no flamenco dancers, English dandies or American college students, but traces of these cultures absorbed into the colours, proportions and details.
The collection is made up of joyful, desirable pieces: frothy skirts, trousers with banded waistlines, asymmetric slip dresses, reimagined polo shirts, lightweight trench coats and silk anoraks. Clever details include reflective collars on otherwise understated beige trench coats.
This is a more physical, everyday and immediate collection, increasingly distant from Jonathan Anderson’s sophisticated, intellectual vision, so closely connected to the world of art.
Givenchy: The Art of Balance
In her third collection for Givenchy, Sarah Burton explores a sense of balance and clarity. She imagines a wardrobe capable of bringing precision and simplicity to the way we dress as we navigate the many perspectives and relentless movement of our lives.
A black leather shift dress lined in yellow; a suit with a leather shirt; the image of a dominatrix indulging her taste for whimsy. Architectural beige trench coats worn over wide black trousers retain an air of authority, made all the more unexpected by a subtle shift in proportion.
Silver-sequinned tops meet yellow fringed skirts; strapless white dresses are paired with shoes finished with pom-poms. Red fringes set colour in motion, while cobalt-blue tailoring provides structure. The dominatrix, after all, has a sense of humour, too. Managing other people’s desires must surely allow for a little diversion.
Celine: The Reassuring Act of Dressing
Through a collection of wide-ranging propositions, Michael Rider defines what the house he leads is not. In place of artifice, he offers the reassuring simplicity of getting dressed.
Satin tops, worn by men as well as women, sit alongside collarless leather coats, petite gathered dresses shaped by darts beneath the bust and delicate ruffles at the shoulders.
Wide-leg trousers, dresses embellished with long skirts and satin overcoats explore the possibilities of fluidity, texture and proportion.
In the Celine Spring/Summer 2027 collection, there is room for people in all their individuality and specificity.
Hermès: Leather Takes Flight
At Hermès, leather seems to take flight. Long fringes sway with every step; leather is cut, frayed, perforated and worked until it becomes almost weightless. Alongside it, diaphanous fabrics inflate and catch the air.
Colour plays a central role. Misty blue gives way to sunset orange, sunflower yellow and bold, luminous shades that seem to ignite: a summery, sun-drenched palette, almost unabashed in its exuberance.
The sleeveless dresses are simple and light, while skirts and trousers explore openings and volumes.
Even the bags appear intent on losing weight. The Kelly and Birkin are flattened and stripped of their familiar structure, transformed into envelope-like silhouettes. A simple gesture, yet a surprisingly radical one.
Lacoste: The Beauty of Effort
It begins with the invitation: a white Lacoste polo shirt accompanied by a bag of red earth, intended to be used to stain it. Pelagia Kolotouros, the designer, has already conveyed her message. Sport is about effort, exertion and the marks left behind — the very things that make an object, and an experience, feel more authentic.
The collection captures this spirit in both its colours and its attitude. Everything seems slightly worn, marked by its surroundings, as though it had absorbed the traces of a place. From racket bags and skirt-like silhouettes to polo shirts, familiar sportswear is reworked for everyday life: knitted ties, trench coats, blazers and jersey suits.
It is a wardrobe shaped by movement and use, where the sporting spirit becomes part of the rhythm of daily dressing.
Valentino: Antilibrary — A Catalogue of the Unread
The most intriguing accessory to look out for was a book. Guests arriving at the show had been asked to bring one to donate to Parisian libraries.
The collection’s theme, Antilibrary: Catalogue of the Unread, explores the idea that the books we have yet to read represent not what we lack, but everything we have still to discover.
Clothes absorb resources, hours of labour and exceptional skill. The theory becomes more precise when it acknowledges the work embedded in the commodity, and the desire that extends beyond it.
Chanel: A Magnificent Flight
Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel takes flight in spectacular fashion. At the Grand Palais, transformed into an enormous resin pond, a flock of luminous seagulls sweeps across the sky, setting the scene for a vision of freedom, lightness and movement.
The collection travels through the many lives of Gabrielle Chanel, revealing the different facets of the same identity. Rather than reconstructing the past, Blazy brings it into dialogue with the present: jersey, menswear, the tailored suit and the dresses of the 1930s all find their place in the narrative, which moves towards the future with a new smocked tweed, elastic and extraordinarily lightweight.
Everything transforms, overlaps and breaks free — garments, identities and the many incarnations of Gabrielle Chanel herself.
Louis Vuitton: Between Past and Future
A dialogue unfolds between past and future, between the history of an iconic setting and the vision of a world populated by flying machines and ever-purer lines.
Simplicity and lightness take centre stage. Nicolas Ghesquière imagines an almost aerodynamic fashion, in which the body sets the rules and garments follow its movement.
Essential silhouettes, weightless materials and fluid volumes combine chiffon, silk, nappa leather and knitwear that move like a second skin. Even the bags become slimmer, as though ready to take on a metaphorical wind tunnel.
Texte By ROMANA BARBA
Photo by Piero Biasion
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